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Earwigs


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The European earwig was not known to occur in the United States prior to 1900. They are a native of Europe, western Asia and northern Africa and have been introduced into East Africa, the East Indies, Australia, New Zealand and North America. In North America it was first reported from both the Pacific northwest and Rhode Island and eastern Massachusetts. It now occurs throughout most of the northeastern states and the west coast north of central California, with localized infestations in Utah and Colorado. The European earwig has been found in Michigan since the mid-1960's.

Earwigs have benefited from man's activities. As a result, the density of earwig infestations is closely related to the level of human activity. Earwigs rarely fly and they are unable to crawl for long distances, yet they have spread rapidly through the eastern and western United States. This is because they are accomplished "hitch-hikers". They wander about at night and crawl into any available hiding place before dawn. Thus they may be carried long distances in bundled newspapers, luggage, cut flowers and produce, crated merchandise, lumber and building supplies, automobiles and even the mail.

The European earwig is a medium-sized insect (1/4 to 1 1/4 inch) that is easily recognized by the reddish- brown color, short wings, and prominent forcep-like appendages at the tip of the abdomen. The native ringlegged earwig, Euborellia anulipes (Lucas), may also occur around buildings in Michigan. The species can be distinguished by the shape of the forceps.

The name "earwig" originated in Europe and is based upon a popular, but totally unfounded, superstition that earwigs enter the ears of sleeping persons and bore into the brain.

Earwigs develop from eggs to adult via gradual metamorphosis and the rate of development is temperature dependent. The earwigs overwinter as pairs in cells in the soil. The males are evicted from these cells in the early spring as the female prepares to raise the first of two broods. Each female lays 20 to 50 small, white eggs, and she protects them from natural enemies, desiccation and mold.

The early spring brood requires an average of 70 days for incubation; the second, late spring brood only requires an average of 20 days for incubation.

The immature earwigs (nymphs) resemble the adults except for the smaller size, grayish-brown color and lack of wings. They require an average of 50 days to reach maturity.

Earwigs are omnivorous. They will consume algae, fungi, mosses, pollen, insects, spiders and mites (dead or alive). The plant material almost always constitutes the bulk of the diet. Thus, earwigs may damage flowers, vegetables, fruits, foliage of ornamental trees and shrubs, and even honey in bee hives. Fortunately, the damage by earwigs is generally much less severe than would be expected by the actual concentration of earwigs present.

Earwigs are first-rate nuisance pests. They are found in and around homes and may be found in household articles, foodstuffs, crawl spaces, debris, cut flowers, produce and shrubbery. Their grotesque appearance, secretive habits and occasional foul odor are the primary reasons for homeowner disdain.

Earwigs can be controlled through a variety of means, including natural enemies, trapping, and insecticides. When the European earwig was introduced into the United States it had no natural enemies. Today we benefit from the activity of several natural enemies, including two fly parasites, a roundworm parasite and a fungal disease. To fully benefit from these natural enemies it is best to avoid using insecticides during the early summer when the adult parasites are active.

Before attempting other types of control, be sure to remove all debris (boards, stones, paper, etc.) and use mortar or caulking compound to seal all cracks and crevices in the outside of the house. Since earwigs are attracted to light it may be necessary to reduce lighting around doors, or to use non-attractive (yellow) bulbs.

Earwigs can be easily trapped and destroyed. Set out rolls of newspaper in shrubbery, mulch, tree crotches and similar areas. Burn or destroy the rolls daily. Or, try a box trap. To make the trap use a pencil to punch holes in the side of a cardboard box near the bottom. Bait the box with oatmeal or bran and set them out in infested areas. A third alternative is to set out pieces of heavy burlap, canvas or newspaper. Each morning pick up the burlap and quickly spray with one of the suggested out door insecticides.

If you choose to use an insecticide out of doors, a diazinon 25% EC formulation sprayed completely around the outside foundation is suggested. If you choose to use an insecticide indoors a ready to use spray of chlorpyrifos, or propoxur is suggested.

For a complete listing of suggested control options for all home, yard and garden insect pests contact your local Extension Service, found under local government in the phone book.

Read and follow instructions on the pesticide label. Heed all warnings. Check with your physician if you have any concerns regarding your personal health risk. Revised by Tom Ellis, M.S., Department of Entomology



Credit MSU Extension

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